Bons adieux a' la France.....

 

I recently returned from a dream stitching vacation in France.... My traveling/stitching friend Cheryl and I patiently waited three years for this 'must experience' trip to happen. The adventure checked all the boxes for a first time orientation of a new destination.... Paris, Bayeux and Chantilly. Great hotel locations, tours, food (lost a few pounds) and wonderful embroidery classes with experts in their techniques... Everything a serious embroiderer could ask for.... Most important, it has reignited an excitement in life in general, after such a long period of isolation with only a few short trips since Covid took over our lives....

I have found that arriving a day early for tours is a good idea. I spent my first 8 hours in Paris walking a few streets near my hotel and stopped for a bite at the Cafe' de la Paix with a view of the the Palais Garnier/Opera House above. The food was fresh, a fruit bowl and croissant for breakfast, while I patiently waited until I could order from the lunch menu..... a Caesar Salad with grilled chicken and poached egg... How glorious to spend several hours at a Cafe', 'with a view', which is considered socially accepted here..... After 22 hours in route to your destination, it is a much deserved respite and ALL anyone needs... Several women in our group came from Australia/New Zealand and spent days in route so I am not complaining..... Note to self, next time only direct flights to Europe...

Our embroidery classes began with two days of goldwork from the Rochefort Gold Embroidery Studio of Sylvie Deschamps. I have completed goldwork in the past, including a week with 'Hand and Lock' of London at the Williamsburg School of Needlework, but it was wonderful having a class in French.... What an experience communicating needlework technique with a language barrier... My instructress Marlene Rouhaud (their star 'professor') was wonderful. At this point I need to add that European studios stress a uniform/exactness in embroidery. An individual 'hand' is frowned upon, a concept some Americans, at first, have issues with..... Below is the Level 3 Design, along with a rare picture of me at my chair. Marlene insisted taking the picture so I relented... We wasted no time after class, by walking to local alleyway shopping before dinner... Two Paris venues had been cancelled.... Maison Sajou, which closed during Covid and Au Ver A Soie, closed for their vacation. I was a bit disappointed, but found on the Sajou Website that La Bon Marche' had a display of their products. Cheryl and I walked there one evening which was a fun diversion.... and I found a few items not offered in the states....

I need to add pictures of the 'hotel food'. While in Paris we also enjoyed 'Tea at the Ritz' and dinner at Cafe' au du Paix... I'm only adding one dessert pic...

I love the stone architecture of Paris and appreciate the building ordinance which restricts a buildings weight. It allows the sun to shine on everything and makes one appreciate the few exceptions i.e. Notre Dame below in scaffolding, possibly for several years, due to the fire in 2019 (note that the exterior has been scrubbed clean). Also, the Galeries Lafayette whose interior dome is incredible, followed by its roof top view of Paris and one of several meat counters....

On our way out of Paris we stopped at the Bohin Needle factory which was a fascinating tour. I love Bohin needles and enjoyed seeing the glass head pin and needle manufacturing process. 

I could have watched the woman below packing needles all day..... seriously. I purchased a pair of silk fabric scissors, souvenir needle packages and glass head pins.... next stop Bayeux.....

I have been looking forward to this part of the trip for two reasons: to see the Bayeux Tapestry (which is actually embroidered) and to see the Beaches of Normandy. My Dad (Arnold H. Stade) was there on D-Day, June 6, 1944 with the 116th Infantry (29th Division) on Omaha Beach. He survived the landing needing only superficial 'field dressing' but was seriously wounded at St. Lo. and hospitalized for several months in the UK before making it back to the States. He had planned to return someday, but never made it back, I'm happy to see a location which has a history with my family....A view of sacred ground below....

Bayeux is simply a charming small town, ageless because it's all in stone. I completely loved walking the streets and the lively local restaurants, some pictures below...

Although pictures of the Bayeux Tapestry are not allowed, there are many articles and books which give a detailed (depending on the propaganda slant) story of the events leading up to the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Before I arrived to see 'the original', I had read Jan Massent's book, The Bayeux Tapestry, Embroiderers' Story. A copy of 'the original tapestry' was stitched in the UK and her book describes details such as the argument of whether 'outline' rather than 'stem stitch' is 'correct' to outline the embroidered characters. Bayeux local 'Atelier maitre artisan d'art', Chantal James teaches in her classes that 'stem stitch' should be used to outline the figures, because the over all 'look' of the original has a curvier feel, an effect the 'outline stitch' will not give. Expert embroideress Chantal taught a half-day class instruction on the Bayeux Stitch, she holds the license to sell reproduction kits of the tapestry.... I finished my class piece (mythical figure) shown below and purchased another kit which includes three elements which I find intriguing from the original: horses, chainmail and the characteristic funky trees. I may finish this kit as a bolster pillow...It's actually quite large 33 x 24 inches.

While in Bayeux we enjoyed a two day class of 'painting with thread' with Catherine Laurencon, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2011. I have several pictures of her beautiful pieces, amazingly stitched with DMC cotton threads.... Anyone who knows me, knows I have sworn NEVER to take any class with cotton threads. I'm a silk snob..... Well.... never, ever say never... Below right is my very French girl stitched with DMC cotton floss in class... I purchased a second kit of Edelweiss flowers, no threads included, so I'm debating to match the colors with silk or use cotton.... time will tell!! On the left, sadly, the final two day class of the tour which took place in Chantilly. Actually, a class in whitework, but the leaves are green so??? Again, stitched with DMC cotton floche.  I actually like the overall look and coverage of the areas I have finished.... I tried to keep an open mind to new techniques and thus have learned a lot on this wonderful trip....

On route, out of Bayeux, we traveled on local roads giving a view of the hedgerows my father had described of his experience of the terrain... Continuing on to Chantilly we stopped for several hours at Monet's Gardens, with lunch at the cafe'.... Below are several views of the gardens. It's easy to see the inspiration for his wonderful paintings... a real treat... and Monet collected Japanese prints, interesting.

The big attraction of Chantilly is the Palace de Chantilly, the incredible building beginning this post. Our hotel is located at the gates, giving us access to the grounds of the Palace and the extraordinary 'horse stable'... We had a private tour of the Chantilly Lace Museum. My sister loved Chantilly perfume, which I remembered on seeing its' pink package on our tour. A view of a street and the museum follow....

The food at our Hotel was probably the best yet, but all the food in France was wonderful....Check out the two salads below... Yes, that's caviar... and our server wasn't bad looking either, some say (Cheryl) a George Clooney look alike....

Our last day in Chantilly was a free morning. We had a choice of staying around the hotel or we could catch the early train back to Paris. The owners of Au Ver A Soie had returned from vacation and would open for us..... YEAH.... so the next morning four of us decided to go. I'm happy I experienced taking the train, which if traveling with luggage, is a bit awkward. When arriving in Paris from the airport a taxi is a better idea.... So happy to finally experience Au Ver A Soie. I now have a signed copy of their recent published Designers Book featuring Tricia Nguyen... All the boxes are now checked, a wonderful trip and fantastic memories'..

I am very happy to have escaped for over two weeks from my present location. Everything I enjoy completely shutdown the past two years. People who believe their singing will somehow be entertaining, make me want to scream...  I'm bored with the narcissistic behavior of our media, bored of people singing (in most cases, badly), bored of interviews with sports personalities (who really cares), bored of advertisements of Law firms and sports gambling APPs... It was wonderful to escape to a country with real people, where history was made, with beautiful architecture, wonderful food, and very talented artisans willing to share incredible talents....

                                                    Fini...