Saturday, July 25, 2015

Thoughts on Women and Virtue in Austen's novels

I wrote the following, on Virtue, almost two months ago but did not post because I have been hurt by comments I have received or heard criticizing women who embroider. I need to set the record straight. It has been my experience that some of the brightest women (and men) either embroider, tailor their own clothes, fashion drapery and bedding for the home, are involved in woodworking, or have some sort of creative outlet. It is an art to view something in your minds eye and then create it with your hands. I personally am deep in thought, relaxed (extremely focused), and usually planning the rest of my day in the early hours of the morning, five or six AM with my needle in hand. In a way it is a bit like yoga, a complete concentration on the present where you are experiencing a peaceful time of meditation. I currently am finishing Barbara Jackson's teatime basket and a matching sewing pocket 'Sweet Heart of Mine' to carry my tea service and stitching project(s) to a friends home or a local Jane Austen meeting. The pocket's verse is, 'Count that day lost whose low descending sun... views from thy hand no worthy action done'. I suppose even writers, like J.A., could find comfort in that verse. Several comments have been made in papers and at the recent AGM focused on Mansfield Park concerning Lady Bertram. The comments usually equate embroidery with sloth or a useless pastime, but as any embroiderer would know, she is escaping. At some point in the past she simply relented to the overbearing nature of her sister, Mrs. Norris, and constant interference with her family. She introverted into her thoughts and it has become a bonding time with Fanny who sees all. There......a load off my mind! I personally consider critics of embroidery ignorant of the deep connection of expressing oneself with the needle, whose roots span thousands of years. Fine embroidery is cherished in museums! Like literature, it is what binds us to who we are and where we came from. Now I can post again........ but I have updated some of what I wrote previously........

Next on the agenda..... I am looking forward to attend an event with the Eastern Pennsylvania Region of JASNA this coming weekend (June 6th, D-Day). They are hosting Sara Emsley author of a fascinating book, 'Jane Austen's Philosophy of the Virtues'. Her talk will be on women and ambition in Jane Austen's novels and whether ambition is a virtue. I came across her book, by accident, almost two years ago while planning my Austen themed 'Seven Virtues' casket. I googled Jane Austen and Virtues, hoping for some papers on the subject, and Sara's book and blog popped up. The book is a college text book, as such a bit pricey, so I requested a copy from a local college before actually purchasing it. I was floored and have to admit it did change my original plan. At the time, I was struggling with two virtues and their corresponding heroine. My second time through her book, I realized the real story is a heroines struggle with a particular virtue, anything if taken to an extreme could deceive a persons perspective and deprive them a connection in a personal relationship and true happiness. In reality today, I wonder if behaving in a virtuous lifestyle is not a handicap and cause for ridicule, but perhaps that has always been the case. The time in which you live dictates the values of your society, and you will do your best to compete in what the venue dictates.

Once I followed the struggle concept everything fell into place and my only criticism of Sara's book is that she does not give Jane Bennett enough credit for extreme temperance. Jane is so severely temperate and under control, it has enabled her to be too trusting of others. It prevents Jane to advocate for herself and as such readers and academics do not take Jane Bennet as a serious Austen heroine. Jane's extreme temperate character is unconvincing as a stand alone, her power is her ability to reign Elizabeth in and balance each other, which is the real story. Almost everything we are told about Jane's perfections are from the conversations of others. My proof is that Darcy, who we are told is critical of everyone, can only say, "she smiles to much", I believe he is actually a wit. Mrs. Bennet places Jane into an awkward position with regard to the invitation to Netherfield. The Bingley sisters bully her into the belief that Bingley does not care for her. Even when she visits her Aunt and Uncle in London, when urged by Elizabeth, she does not find an excuse to conveniently 'run' into Bingley (something Lydia would have figured out once she had arrived..... ah Lydia). I could go on and on...

Again the extreme genius of J.A. takes another form from the Greek virtues of Prudence and Fortitude (Marianne and Elinor Dashwood), and Temperance and Justice (Jane and Elizabeth Bennet). I find the coupled virtues, balanced between the sister duos, extremely interesting. Imagine J.A. toying with the concept of sister pairs, then pairing Greek virtues to decide which would make a better story-line/conflict. Next, we have the three Theological virtues from St. Paul, Faith, Hope and Charity. Each with a character who is struggling solo, Fanny Price, Anne Elliot and Emma Woodhouse. Until the Montreal AGM I did not feel that Fanny Price was a good example of Faith but if you consider she is struggling against the Sins of Lust, Gluttony, Greed, Sloth, Wrath, Envy and Pride each symbolized by a character in the novel, she does keep the faith. In fact each sin appears to have a male and female counterpart, they all have a role to play!

Another interesting observation, the earlier novels written in Steventon deal with the strong sister relationship and balance of two Greek virtues, where the later novels written in Chawton are focused on the struggle of theological virtues and the heroines long standing relationship with a man. My Proof, are Fanny and Edmund, Anne and Captain Wentworth and Emma with Mr. Knightley. Each of the men are a symbol of the the virtue the heroine is struggling with. Edmund a theologian and Faith, Captain Wentworth a sailor (an anchor) the symbol of Hope and last Mr. Knightley ('Knight' symbol of chivalry and valor), the gentry and charity to his fellow man. The evolution from the investigation of the close sister relationship of Elizabeth and Jane in Pride and Prejudice and bro-mance between Darcy and Bingley. Gradually evolving into the investigation of the open/friend relationships between Elinor and Colonel Brandon and also Marianne and Edward. In contrast to the relationships between Elinor and Edward and Marianne and Colonel Brandon which are so strained and hopeless due to sexuality. Is she subtly pointing out the gradual change from immaturity where the closest relationship is one of same sex and maturity where it evolves to one with the opposite sex. When you consider how each heroine seriously struggles, eventually to find balance in learning about themselves, they do become more desirable because they have found happiness.

In case you are interested the conclusion of the Emsley talk was.... modest ambition can be considered a virtue....

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

My Double Casket and its finished drawer interiors..............ideas for the drawer fronts...

The past month I achieved some short and long time goals. I finally sent a load of furniture to Ohio to be auctioned. Almost filled an entire truck, very releasing. Most of the pieces I purchased three decades ago, my taste has changed from what it was in my twenties! I am currently focused on keeping only reproduction and antique pieces from J.A.'s time period, English and 'Williamsburg'/Early American, which should keep me happy well into the future. I am only a few short months away from the end of sorting through stacks of things I no longer want or need. I have reached the realization that realistically I will not live long enough to finish all the crafts and junk in my stockpile. I will simply focus my efforts to finish my caskets, some reproduction samplers and historically accurate pieces and call it a lifetime well spent!

I had to move my double casket and finishing supplies twice, due to the loss of staging tables, but it forced me to finish the drawers which completely covered the drying space of one table before it was sent away. Below are pictures of the finished interior drawers and secret compartments, followed by the inset trays and removable storage of my double casket. What fun deciding what areas would be finished in marbled paper, silk fabric or silk velvet.

The drawers with details of the embossed edging and a front view of the casket with drawers inserted.

     

The finished 'secret' compartments in the two upper portions of the casket and a removable tray. At this point I admit I am in awe of the quality workmanship of the cabinetmakers.

             

The secret compartments in their 'cubbies' and a view of the removable 'tray' in place.

           
 


Below are a few extra views of pieces as I finished them.



The marbled paper I used was purchased from John Bielik at a summer JASNA event in Louisville. The blue and green hues of the paper compliment the blue-green of the silk, the same is true of the ocher with the gold embossing. Over 26 feet of embossed edging strips were required. I found preparing the silk fabric by mounting it to archival paper similar to wallpapering. It occurred to me that this process must be the same in historical homes that boast silk wallpaper in Dining and Boudoir intimate spaces. Which brings me to another favorite past-time, wallpapering! Note the 'Williamsburg' wallpaper used as a background for this blog? I love projects like this, calculating the amount of surface area to cover, applying the adhesive (which as anyone knows....... timing is everything) and matching the pattern so seams are invisible. Finally, smoothing the paper to remove air bubbles and excess adhesive, very focused and relaxing work. Its wonderfully satisfying to see the elegance of a finished room and how much well placed color can change a persons mood.

The casket exterior looks quite different now the wood surface has been sealed and covered in archival paper, the silk embroidery will be mounted to this surface. Gimp edging has been ordered and will probably arrive after the drawer fronts are complete. I am planning to use a historically accurate technique of wrapping silk fibers over card-stock for the drawer fronts. Each drawer will represent one of six major books of J.A's. to be filled with memorabilia from the book.  I will be working on more details in the next few weeks and culling my collection of antique needlework tools to equip my casket. I am relieved to have completed this part of the project. The casket is useful and it will help in the motivation aspects of finishing the embroidery!

I probably should end this post with a picture of Dr. Tricia Wilson Nguyen, Richard Oedel and his crew at Fort Point Cabinetmakers in Boston, MA. This was taken during our East Coast Casket Tour last October and it really added to the whole significance of the experience of taking on a project like this. The concept that a threshold of interested people in the 'fine hand embroidery world' was met, to actually get to the point of manufacturing hundreds of these pieces, is in itself historical. I am so happy to be part of it!



Saturday, January 17, 2015

I begin finishing the interior of my casket(s)...yes, plural...my recent trips...and beaded jewelry from South Africa and Hawaii....

Again, I find myself negligent in keeping up to date with the blogging scene. This does not mean I have not been working on my casket project. In fact, the opposite is true. All I have been focusing on, when home and traveling, for the past three + months, is my casket. I am treading very deep indeed, emotionally, financially, and have an absolutely huge time investment at this point...

Since my last post in October, I attended the 2014 J.A.S.N.A. A.G.M., Winterthur's 'The Diligent Needle, Instrument of Profit, Pleasure and Ornament' Needlework Seminar and the 2014 East Coast Casket Tour. I hosted a J.A. event in my home, finished payments and received my second (flat top) casket carcass, calculated and purchased finishing supplies for both caskets (one huge mess rather than two big ones) and decided I will use the Italian duchesse silk satin background rather than the 1750 linen for my double casket. May not sound like much, but probably a 300 + hour investment... seriously!! Then, spent the holiday's and my 55th birthday in Hawaii which was nearly a month to reconnect with my son and daughter, observation...they are moving on in their lives, and I need to also! Very relaxing atmosphere, some very serious hiking (not to be attempted in regency attire), sea bathing, lots of stitching, reading, shopping and plenty of time to think and reflect on what I want to accomplish while I am still able.

The JASNA AGM was a blast, my college roommate, Marcia and I had lots of fun at the Regency Dance workshop, Banquet/Ball and Eastern Counties/Winery tour. Lectures were very informative, and I did actually purchase a copy of Fordyce's 'Sermons to Young Women' (paperback, I'm not that serious in following his ideology, I mean really....), but I do plan on knowing enough to be dangerous!! Extremely good lectures, which may have a different effect than the presenters had anticipated. I was pleasantly surprised by more cynical commentary than I would have expected. Below is a picture of Marcia and I and the dance itinerary (which we tried to memorize to no avail). The picture makes me feel extremely middle aged, but... I have written so much about my dress, I feel obligated to post me in it. I purchased my wrap in South Africa, wonder if one of Jane's sailor brothers would have done the same! Please excuse my smirk, I have about 4 months left to my orthodontics and I'm in the power chain phase.

     

The 'Casket Tour' from New York City to Boston was mind blowing. From possibly eight to over a dozen of the finest examples of English 17th century caskets and embroidery at every stop. A very diverse collection of satin stitch, couching, stumpwork, beading and wrapped paper techniques, fabrics, palettes and natural materials, plus silk and metal threads. Unfortunately, I can not share any pictures of the collections with the blog due to copy right issues. I do have a favorite, which certain aspects of couching, satin and stumpwork I will adapt in my J.A. theme. I had a very heart warming moment while waiting in line for the M.E.T. in N.Y. Mary Lynn, a very thoughtful woman, from North Carolina read my blog (she's the one!!...) and brought me, what I believe is an out of print copy of Penelope Byrde's, 'A Frivolous Distinction', 1979, Bath City Council. It is chock full of fashion and needlework pertaining to Jane Austen. She wanted to give it to someone who would appreciate it, and bless her heart, I flipping do! Because 17th Century attire is quite different than Regency, my casket will need to adapt, fashion and scene's to better describe my heroines and their story. Let's see 1979, I was freezing in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, my freshman year at Michigan Tech, or later in the year, in summer, busy surveying and laying out a curve in the stamp sands of the Portage, a very naive 19 year old. So far removed from the place I find myself today. I did, however, encounter probably the only English Professor at Tech who observed that I 'clicked' with the English genre, and recommend I read J.A. Sadly, I was too 'busy' at the time, and C.B. was more in vogue....

I spent most of November getting caught up/reviewing Dr. Nguyen's first casket class (probably 1200 pages) and completed all five sample embroidery projects. Below is the pincushion pillow and scissors case on duchesse satin and the butterfly pin pad in tent stitch on the 1750 linen.


I find I work more efficiently if I hold off working small sample technique projects until I'm ready for the big one. I take very detailed notes in class, in the hope small details will be fresh in my mind when I work both sample and big project together. Sometimes, I work several rather large projects in parallel or series if they primarily contain a specific common stitch/technique, just so the rhythm and focus is continued from project to project. My staging area is set for completion of both casket interiors. They will transport and store my supplies as I focus on the exterior stitching phase of  the project in the months ahead. I have recently spent a considerable amount of time packing books and projects which I feel I will have no need for in the next few years. I have also finished over a dozen unrelated/unfinished smalls and clutter no longer pertinent to this empty nester...

Another project Tricia has promoted is a 17th century inspired beaded basket competition. Some caskets and baskets, of this time period, covered in beading could become quite elaborate. What is exciting about this is that beading is still being done in South Africa and Hawaii. Below are examples of jewelry, I purchased in the past year, which I absolutely fell in love with for everyday use. These wonderful pieces were very reasonably priced. I giggle to myself when I see an E.G.A. beaded jewelry class offered which costs the student over an order of magnitude greater than what I have paid, not to mention the addition of your own labor! The beaded bowl and set of necklace, earrings and bangles are from South Africa and the last picture of three varieties of bracelets are all from Hawaii.




Next time, I will show my progress in the caskets interior finishing and hopefully get back to the UK J.A.S.N.A. tour and discuss other wonderful classes and teachers I have been lucky enough to be part of.